Saturday, September 27, 2014

Lobster Land

There is no denying that the Maritime Provinces offer some of the best seafood on the planet, and often lobster is the first item that pops into a seafood lover's mind.  Generally, accompaniments are chowders, rolls, some kind of salad, and often strawberry shortcake for dessert.  A plastic bib, shell crackers, and small forks are tools of the trade.  There is no doubt that attacking a fresh lobster just out of the pot is messy work. Sometimes the experience turns the diner into a lobster roll aficiondo from that point forward.  Dining on lobster today is a far cry when compared with the past.

Lobsters were so abundant and easily caught in colonial times that they were often fed to the livestock. It was a sign of poverty to eat lobster and there was some shame in it.  In the mid 1800's lobster was a bargain salad at half the price of chicken salad.  There are reports of school children trading lobster sandwiches for peanut butter sandwiches as late as the 1940's.

The traditional lobster meal at the Fisherman's Wharf in North Rusticope with it's long salad bar and strawberry shortcake will set you back about $40.
Pleasant Bay is the half way point on the Cabot trail and a good place to stop.   I went for the lobster again while Edie has decided she is a lobster roll aficiondo and does not want to tangle with the crusty crustaceans just out of the pot again.  Great views and the meal costs half of what you would pay at the full fledged Fisherman's Wharf.  Of course the strawberry shortcake was greatly missed



Since National Geographic Traveler called these lobster rolls at the Rusty Anchor the best on the Cabot Trail Edie couldn't go wrong.

Many places will steam fresh live lobster for free.  This is usually much cheaper.  The Lobster Barn Pub and Eatery in Victoria-by-the Sea is run by twin sisters, Jackie and Jenny Myers.  John's meal on the left with Edie's on the right



Don't even think about it.  At $7 Canadian the McLobster doesn't cut it.  Real lobster but quite skimpy with a rather poor unbuttered roll.  Too much celery and mayo for my taste, but you know, you had to try it once just because its there.


Hall's Harbor Lobster Pound and Restaurant is an incredible place with all the right ingredients.  It is a working fishing village with some buildings dating back to the 1820's.  The scenery is gorgeous and the famous Bay of Fundy tides are phenomenal to watch here while you eat your seafood on the outside deck.  You can pick your own lobster and take it with you or eat there.  One of the best bargains seems to be a pound of frozen lobster.  If the old lobsterman at Victoria -by-the-Sea was right it takes five average lobster to make a solid pound of lobster meat.  At $20 Canadian you would be getting $4 lobster.  We put a box in the RV freezer to take home. If you are not into lobster the restaurant also has a complete seafood menu.  
 Lobster traps piled on the docks across from the Lobster Pound

In Digby, Scallops steal the spot light from Lobster.  Home of the largest in-shore scallop fleet the town runs their Digby Scallop Days Festival in August.  Having missed the festival we made sure we got our share.  


 The Fundy Restaurant is a great place to first try Digby scallops


The best way to enjoy scallops, however, is to walk away from the restaurants and head straight for the Digby Fish Market.  You cannot get any fresher or sweeter scallops anywhere.  The scallops are right off the boat and the cheapest price in town.

Scallops are easy to cook and you will have enough for a second or third plate.  Add a salad and a glass of the local Tidal Basin wine and you will soon forget the restaurant meal.

Need a change from scallops and Lobster.  How about seafood pizza, seafood wraps, chowders, and many varieties of fish.  What was our best seafood meal?  John's was actually the home-cooked scallops.  Edie's favorite was found at the Red Shoe Pub in Mabou.


Edie's winner goes to the Red Shoe's halibut with a spinach, artichoke, and cream cheese topping surrounded by potatoes, yellow beets and broccoli.  Even in lobster land the favorite may not be lobster!

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