The latest edition of the "Tortugas Gazette" describes this small group of islands as remote, lonely, peaceful and a paradise for birdwatching. Located 70 miles west of Key West, it is the most remote national park in the lower 48 states. The park itself contain seven small islands (although several of these have merged). All visitors arrive by boat or plane at a dock on Garden Key which is only 16 acres and is dominated by Fort Jefferson. Fort Jefferson is the third largest U.S coastal fortification ever built. It's three story, eight foot thick walls contain 22 million bricks. The history of Fort Jefferson is one of brutal and harsh living conditions for the humans who worked, soldiered, or were imprisoned there.
Ponce De Leon named the islands ,"Las Tortugas" (The Turtles) in 1513 but when no fresh water was found they soon were known as the "Dry Tortugas" on mariner charts. The name has proved prophetic up to the present. All visitors must carry all their own supplies on and off the island - there are no facilities. The one exception is a small nondescript fresh water fountain inside the fort which attracts migrating birds and was built for birds and not humans. Even it is not always dependable for the thirsty land birds. One bird guide states that Cattle Egrets, having found no insects on the island to eat, have taken to stalking small birds desperate to get fresh water. They then soak their pray for easier swallowing. Even with these efforts many egrets are found starved to death. Life is tough for everything on the Tortugas.
A common way of arriving on the island is to ride the catamaran "Yankee Freedom III (
www.yankeefreedom.com) run by the park service. An early morning start with breakfast provided will get you to the islands by mid-morning. The boat provides your only facilities while on the island and serves a lunch during a two hour window. You arrive back in Key West for the evening meal. The National Park Service has had a lot of practice doing this and are friendly, helpful, and efficient while at the same time protecting the fort and wildlife.
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| View of Fort Jefferson south wall and moat |
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Yankee Freedom III at the fort's boat dock
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Birders exiting the ship immediately notice numerous, almost stationary Magnificent Frigatebirds over the fort. They at first appear to be part of a kite flying demonstration and one expects to see the kite strings anchoring them but soon several will veer off sometimes gliding quite low over the visitors.
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| Male Magnificent Frigatebird with partially inflated throat pouch |
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Female Magnificent Frigatebird
Two birds that many birders want to add to their list and are a given here during the nesting season are the Brown Noddy and Sooty Tern. As one exits the boat and looks to the right he will see a large breeding colony of both birds to the right on Bush Key. A sign prevents access but there are plenty of birds flying around to photograph. Another place to see many Noddies are on the pilings of the north coaling docks which is just past the Bush Key entryway.
Bush Key breeding colony
Brown Noddy
Sooty Tern
North Coaling Dock pilings
A visit to the Dry Tortugas can produce some exciting finds for birders. Everyone hopes for a "fall out" or a stray West Indian or South American species but without a little unsettled weather these occurrences are rare. Our fine weather produced few birds in the bushes and trees inside the fort.
Hooded Warbler at the bird fountain
Gray Kingbird inside fort
Upon returning to Key West dining opportunities are limitless. Edie and I tried the Conch Republic which had good food and a great view of activities in the harbor. If pigeons foraging on the floor, however, are a turnoff you would be well served to try an enclosed restaurant.
Just Edie, the marina, and the pigeons.
Catch of the day
St Kitts Pasta
On your way out of the Keys, one of my favorite birding stops is No Name Key which is off from Big Pine Key and part of the National Key Deer Refuge. If you have driven the Keys and not seen any deer, No Name Key is the closest thing to a sure bet. Drive slow and one of them will surely cross your path. Be alert, however, since they seem to have absolutely no road sense at all. Also look for White-crowned Pigeon, Black-whiskered Vireo, and possibly a Mangrove Cuckoo although that one has eluded me. A good place to stop for refreshments is the No Name Pub. It is easy to miss but will be on your left just before the bridge to No Name Key. It is one of those establishments which never worries about interior paint or wall paper as customers write their names on dollar bill and stick them to the walls and ceiling. Add your own if you can find a bare spot!
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