Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Lake Charles, Louisiana

A wedding in Lake Charles, Louisiana was a great reason to take a quick roadtrip to Cajun country again.  Photography took a back seat to family fun but I still packed a 400mm lens just in case.  My daughter accompanied Edie and me and we were anxious to introduce her to Louisiana culture.  A must stop for first time visitors traveling along Interstate 10 is a visit to the Atchafalaya Vistors Center whose welcome sign informs you that you are "smack dab in the middle of North America's largest river swamp".  The Atchafalaya is larger than the Florida Everglades, 5 times more productive than any other river basin in North America, contains over sixty species of reptiles and amphibians alone, and contains the largest concentration of Bald Eagles in all South Central United States. 
A visit to the tourist town of Breaux Bridge is a great way to follow up the visitor center.  It was time for lunch when we arrived and only Cajun food would do. 

Crawfish Town USA (http://www.crawfishtownusa.com/) was a restaurant we had not visited in previous trips and we decided to give it a try.  I was a little concerned when only a few tables were occupied as we entered but it was a week day and still early.  The food was good, however, and the service fast although our waitress did not exhibit the usual Louisiana hospitality we have come to expect.  A friendly local couple, when discovering we were from Michigan, made up for the waitress and were genuinely concerned that we have a good time in the area.  Edie ordered the "seafood festival" which included a little bit of everything including stuffed crab and shrimp, frog legs, oysters, and jambalaya.  She liked everything but the oysters which she gave to me.


I ordered the "Swamp Sampler" which was advertised as a "taste of the Atchafaylaya" and included alligator, frog legs, catfish, and crawfish.  I wish more restaurants tried grilling these specialties but apparently frying is the easiest.  Nevertheless it was good.



Heather started out her Cajun  dining experience with shrimp etouffee which she enjoyed. 

After lunch the girls shopped in Breaux Bridge.  One of the more interesting stops, especially for gardeners,


is found several blocks south of the business district on highway 31.  No matter what the size or type of garden you have, this sprawling complex has garden art that would complement it.  Whether you are a successful gardener or not........

this location is worth stopping for.

The girls allowed me to make a quick check on the status of the Lake Martin rookery.  I keep hoping that it will return to it's status as a world class location to photograph huge numbers of herons, egrets, and spoonbills but sadly it has not.  Ever since the birds left I have found only a few birds (cattle egrets and little blue herons) but nothing close to the road as previously.

Although time was limited in Lake Charles, I did get up early Friday morning and arrived at Sam Houston Jones State Park (www.crt.state.la.us/parks/ishjones.aspx) while it was still dark.  This park has camping facilities and the typical cypress swamp and lake habitat.  Although the photography was not that


good in the time I had, the birding was excellent.  Pileated woodpeckers, kingbirds, wood ducks, carolina wrens and chickadees were in abundance along with somewhat tame deer wandering through the campground.  I returned in time for breakfast with the rest of the relatives.  Discussion at breakfast determined that our group had three objectives for the remaining time before the wedding:  A quick tour of Lake Charles, lunch, and a ride on the Creole Nature Trail.  Since temperatures were poking above 100 degrees hiking long distances were out of the question. 
After a brief ride through parts of Lake Charles the group ate at Steamboat Bills (http://www.steamboatbills.com/) .
Although they have a varied menu one of their specialites is boiled crawdads in season.

Crawdads, crawfish, crayfish, mudbugs, or yabbies. No matter what you call them they are messy to eat but well worth it.

After lunch the group headed south along Highway 27 hoping to complete the U section of the Creole Nature Trail down to the ocean and finishing at Sulphur where our hotel was.  The Creole Nature Trail (http://www.creolenaturetrail.org/) has been given All American Road status.  This designation is a step above the National Scenic Byway label.  As of last year, only 31 routes have been given the title of All American Road.   In comparison there are 120 National Scenic Byways.  Since the Creole Nature Trail contains 180 miles of road with limited facilities a check of the gas tank is essential. 

Our first stop was the Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge visitor center. 

Along the vistor center boardwalks one can see large numbers of fish, turtles and alligators swimming below.

Inside the center a Cajun couple comes to life explaining Cajun ways and the wildlife in the area.

South of the visitor center a three mile drive on Pintail Wildlife Drive produced a number of bird sightings despite the 100 degree mid day heat.  Black-necked Stilts were rather common along with the typical wading birds such as Great Egrets, Cattle Egrets, and a Black-crowned Night Heron. 

A nice break half way through the loop is a ride on the Cameron Ferry across the Calcasieu Ship Channel.  Here you have a chance to stretch your legs, experience cooler sea breezes, and watch the ship traffic carrying oil and natural gas.  Brown Pelicans drift past you, and, if you are fortunate, you may see dolphins as they frolic at the bow of the large ships passing. 


One of the criteria for attaining All American Road status is that the route must be a destination all by itself-not just a side trip.  I would like to return soon and give Louisiana's Outback the time and respect is deserves.