Saturday, September 27, 2014

Cape Breton Island

After exiting the ferry from Prince Edward Island we drove east to Cape Breton Island across the Strait of Canso.  A very helpful visitor center employee just after the terminal had listened to our preferences and spend 20 minutes digging up information for us.  She steered us to the Macleod Beach Campsite where she said we would find a beautiful beach.  The Macleod Clan of Scotland call this area home and run a number of places to stay.  Sometimes visitor centers tend to steer you to the local tourist traps but this lady listened to Edie and was right on.  The beach was beautiful!






It was tough to leave in the morning but Cape Breton Highland National Park beckoned us.  After filling up on diesel at Cheticamp (no stations in the park), paying park fees, and buckling up we entered the park and continued on the Cabot Trail. The scenery here is breathtaking.  It is no wonder the Scottish Highlanders who settled the area felt right at home.



The top of the Island is out of the park but two small campgrounds showed on the map and they proved too attractive to pass up.  Our large and comfortable fifth wheel would not have worked here but the advantage of a small truck camper with four-wheel drive now showed its advantage.  Minimalist camping is in vogue here and if truth be told, I prefer it.  The first campsite was at Meat Cove and was gorgeous.


I could have easily stayed here but despite the gravel road there was a small but steady stream of tourists who when they came to the dead end, had to turn around, and invariable gawk into the campsites.  The owner had put up a rope to keep people from straying into the small number of campsites.  I am sure that would have slowed up towards evening but decided to check out the second campsite.

Jumping Mouse Eco Camping was a short drive away and we were the only campers out of 10 available sites.  You could not tow any rig into 7 of the spots and the remaining three were questionable although a small trailer might work.  A small fishing harbor that could be explored, two pit toilets, free showers, no hookups,  a small recycling center, and a friendly host sealed the deal.  






His and Hers

No running water and no smell
Bay St Lawrence 

The following morning rain was threatening but it was supposed to clear by noon.  That never happened.  Cold, windy, and wet conditions continued through the entire day.  We traveled down the east side of the island and re-entered the park.  The east side of the island does not have the spectacular views that the west side has.  Considering the rain, that was our only consolation.  I had hoped to spend a lot of time at the Fortress of Louisbourg but the rain continued.  We paid our fees and got bussed in, but even the period dressed actors were hiding in doorways hoping for the day to end.  We slogged through some of the buildings but cut the visit short and headed for the bus.  

French fisherman

Dauphin Gate 
Military Chapel

Bedroom for the Governor

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