Machias Area

Sunday, July 25 2010.  It rained during the night but stopped by the time we left for the Machias area.  On the way we made side trips into Winter Harbor, Schoodic Peninsula (another part of Acadia NP), and Jonesport.   After checking into the Machias Motor Inn we drove to Cutler to make sure there would be no problems on the puffin trip tomorrow.  Cutler is a small fishing village with lobstering as the main occupation. It's tides are influenced by the Bay of Fundy and the average interval between high and low tides is 14 feet (compared to over 40 feet in some areas).  With two highs and two lows per day the water is constantly going up and down. 

Cutler Harbor

Back in Machias, we had dinner at the Bluebird Restaurant. Edie ordered the stuffed haddock while I had the citrus halibut special.  Edie's meal was excellent but my halibut was flat and tasteless.  Even the few onions on top did not help.  After tasting Edie's great haddock I knew she got the better of this deal.  My consolation prize was Maine blueberry pie which is seen everywhere this time of year.  Edie said it was the best blueberry pie she has had and I agreed.  It is quite different from previous pies we have tasted.  The berries are fresh and uncooked which give the pie a completely different identity that I am use to.  The normal jelly-like consistency is replaced with fresh solid uncooked blueberries.  I much prefer this and was happy to seeEdie wondering how she could duplicate this at home.

Monday, July 26.  Finally Puffin Day arrives!  The Bold Coast Charter Company, who conducts tours of Machias Seal Island for the puffins, has a 7 AM departure time.  At 4 AM the hotel room was beginning to get light and I couldn't get back to sleep.  The 30 minute drive to Cutler was in bright sunshine and I was thinking of all the great light we were wasting.  Edie dropped me off a half hour early and I, of course, was the first one there waiting for the rest to arrive.  The tour was maxed out at 15 people.  Four of us were serious photographers and the rest a mixed group of birders, non-birders, and a granddaughter, daughter, and grandmother-three generation group.
Our captain, Andy, did an excellent job of loading and unloading people during low tide.  This involved using a skiff to get customers to the main boat and then towing that skiff behind us to the island.  Depending on conditions this would take two to three trips to get people loaded.  Landing on the island is not guaranteed.
Another photographer told me this was his fourth trip.  The first one was cancelled at the dock due to weather.  The second trip ran out to the island and then could not land.  The third, yesterday, did land but was in pouring rain and people had to scramble up slippery rocks because the boat could not get into the normal landing.  One person decided to stay on the boat.  A different company had cancelled completely. After this tale of woe I felt fortunate to see bright sunshine and relatively calm seas.  Andy said June was good but July up to now has been "crappy". 

Pulling in the skiff

Very few birds were seen on the trip until we got near the island.  After landing we were greeted by the Canadian lighthouse keeper/biologist who laid down the ground rules protecting the nesting birds.  Birders must stay on the paths, be led to their blind, and not leave until they are gotten by staff.  You may leave your blind if necessary but may not return to it and must spend the rest of your stay in the staging area.  There is an outhouse which can be used before leaving for the blinds. 

Approaching Machias Seal Island

The sight from the blind is mind-boggling.  Thousands of puffins were in view-some within a few feet.  They rested on top of our blinds and paraded in front of the viewing ports.  The noise on top of the blind was disconcerting at first as you could hear the birds shuffling around on top and the occassional loud crash landing of a new bird.

Resting puffins on top of a blind

Carrying food

The blind itself was crowded.  My blind had four people-all large-and there was very little maneuvering space.  The ports themselves were made for little people.  I had to crouch awkwardly which soon produced a back ache.  The string of complaints from my fellow prisoners indicated I was not alone in the strained joint department.  The spectacular display outside, however,  was more than enough to compensate us for our troubles.

The trip back was pleasant and we arrived back at Cutler in the early afternoon.  After editing images we walked across the motel parking lot and dined at Helens.  I assume it is the same outfit that runs the previous one we ate at.  The special was one and quarter pound lobster for $13 which was my choice.  It actually looked like a 1 and a half pounder.  Edie does not like the messy work involved with whole lobster and ordered the lobster roll.