Thursday, October 27, 2011

Cherohala Skyway and The Dragon's Tail

The Cherohala Skyway is a National Scenic Byway stretching 43 miles through the southern Appalachian Mountains between Tellico Plains, Tennessee and Robbinsville, North Carolina.  While rather desolate in the winter, the road becomes busy in the fall as 120 species of trees, sweeping vistas, and changes in altitude give the visitor a glorious display of color over a very long foliage season.  During the last week of October we found bare trees above 3000 feet but peak color in the lower altitudes.  Tellico Plains, Tennessee is on the western end of the road, and being at lower altitude was the perfect home base for us at this time of year (There are no facilities on the highway so staying at one end or the other is necessary).  
Bald River Falls

Along the Cherohala

Bald River Gorge

This area adjoins Smoky Mountain National Park, by far the most visited National Park in the country.  Because of this popularity photographers often find themselves in traffic jams and fighting each other for some of the more photogenic (and overshot) areas.  The Cherohala Skyway area has many of the same opportunities but far fewer visitors.  I did not see another tripod until the third day.
That does not mean, however, that you have the area completely to yourself.  Sports car enthusiast and cyclists find the roads in the area very attractive and businesses cater to them.  The most famous of these roads is The Dragon's Tail (http://www.tailofthedragon.com/ ) which boasts 318 curves in 11 miles.  Traveling this paved road would not be the best choice for somebody susceptible to car sickness but for the lover of sports cars and fast cycles it is pure adrenaline.  Several online photographers set up along the road and snap your picture as you cruise by.  In a couple days you can find and order your picture.  Since The Dragon's Tail is part of State Highway 129 the fast machines have to share the road and you may find your beat up Silverado being tailgated by a Ferrari or Viper.  Sometimes tractor trailers use the road which can be dangerous since they have to use both lanes to navigate many of the curves.  Meeting one of these on a cycle as they block the entire road is a cyclist's nightmare and hence the name "cycle eater".


Arriving back in Tellico Springs your choices at fine dining are somewhat limited but the Tellico Grains Bakery ( http://tellico-grains-bakery.com/ ) is a wonderful place for lunch if you can find a parking spot between the Corvettes and Vipers.

Coker Creek Falls

Baby Falls

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Chasing color in Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Michigan's Upper Peninsula is a wonderful blend of national forests, waterfalls, casinos, smoked fish, pasties, and inhabitants who call themselves "yoopers".  Any time of the year can be interesting in the U.P. including the long and hard winters.  Toughened birders search out boreal species which often spend January and February in this area.  I can remember photographing Great Gray Owls on Sugar Island when the early morning temperature had dropped to 18 degrees below zero.  Spring time is exciting as the forests in the area become home to many species of nesting songbirds.  My favorite time there, however, has little to do with birds.
The first week of October brings one of nature's greatest shows to anyone willing to make the drive.  The diversity of tree species that this area produces brings an unbelievable fall color spectacle that rivals anywhere on earth including New England.  Web sites such as http://www.foliagenetwork.com/ give a general idea of how the color is progressing.  Generally, color starts in the western portions of the U.P. and move east.  The change is not uniform and I have noticed that areas close to water sometimes are a few days later than more interior regions but no two years are the same.  A lack of moisture or variations in temperature all effect the results. 
This year I spent time from Brimley in the east to Copper Harbor in the west.  One of my favorite and most consistant areas is located around Munising.  Highway 58 is one of the best and most popular paved roads in the area for "leaf peepers".  Unfortunately this year some one has been dumping nails on the highway and a large number of motorists have reported flats.  News reports say the police are looking for the individual and do not think it is accidental.  My solution is to get off the highways since the national forest roads provide a much deeper color experience.  They are dirt, fair weather roads, but passable in any car in the fall, unless there has been a lot of rain.  Bring a good map and gps and be prepared to be amazed as the colorful canopy at times completely covers the road and surrounds you in color.  You will never experience this on the highway and you can slow way down without being tailgated and usually will meet only a few other cars.  For starters, I would suggest leaving Highway 58 (paved) at Melstrand and traveling Highway 52  (dirt) southwest to Highway 28 which is the main road in the area and will take you back to Munising.  This is only one of hundreds of forest roads in the area that would produce similar results.  After a full day of touring a meal at the "Dogpatch" ( http://www.dogpatchrestaurant.com/) in the middle of town is a local favorite that always satisfies.  If you are feeling like a steak you can grill your own at "Foggys Steakhouse and Lounge" in Christmas just west of Munising.  Foggy's open pit barbecue is only fired up on Friday's and Saturdays and that is the only time I would recommend eating there.  During the week you would do better to travel down the road to the Brownstone Inn.