North Dakota

North Dakota has 63 National Wildlife Refuges, more than any other state. I had hoped to photograph in Lostwood, Des Lacs, and J. Clark Salyer NWR but the weather was not going to be in my favor. I noticed that the last couple National Wildlife Refuges all boasted observation towers and Lostwood was no exception. It's tower seemed especially tall. I wondered if some of the refuges were in a "my tower is bigger than your tower" contest.

I had hoped to photograph two types of "LBJ's" here but neither the Nelson's Sharptail or the LeConte's Sparrow cooperated. A front was approaching and the as the skies turned gray and the weather report was full of "heavy downpours", I remembered the futility of the first part of this roadtrip and made a quick decision to point the truck towards Michigan. I stopped in Kidder County for old times sake but found that the old spots had experienced a lot of water and birds were scattered so I continued on. Western Minnesota still had very high water levels. At one rest stop the water was up to the steps of the restrooms and a fellow traveler told me that it had been closed just two weeks ago. I decided that this road trip was now over and to run ahead of the front. About midnight I stopped at a "WalMart Waldorf" and slept for several hours and then continued on to Michigan.

Medicine Lake National Wildlife Refuge, Montana

Medicine Lake NWR is in the northeast corner of Montana which puts it in the middle of the prairie pothole (duck factory) region of the country. There is no camping near the refuge so I stayed in Culberston, about a half hour south. Due to the great weather and abundance of birds this was by far the most productive place for photography thus far. Being grassland this area has a lot of "LBJ's" or "little brown jobs" like sparrows, pipits, and longspurs. Most people would find these rather boring but they have a beauty of their own. Being "potholed" this area also has a lot
of ducks and waterbirds. It boasts a large colony of white pelicans

Baird's Sparrow

Chestnut-collared Longspur

Clay-colored Sparrow

Horned Grebe

Sprague's Pipit

Swainson's Hawk

Swainson's Hawk

Western Grebe

Wilson's Phalarope

Yellow-headed Blackbird

Pawnee National Grassland

Socorro, New Mexico is a great little town but after two nights waiting for the truck to be fixed I felt I had seen enough of it for now. The mechanics told me the pressure hose from the power steering unit to the booster had cracks in it. That had to be replaced along with the power steering pump. Neither part had been available in town. I ruined the power steering unit when I continued to drive it after it had lost all the fluid. That, according to the mechanic, was the right thing to do since the tow charge would have cost a lot more than the unit. I made it to Greeley, Colorado just before dark and grabbed some sleep at WalMart.

I made it to Pawnee National Grassland at sunrise. This area is a product of the 1930's dust bowl years when the government begin to buy up acreage from the bankrupt farmers. At present it is about one quarter government owned and the rest is private land.

Lark Buntings, Western Meadowlarks, and Horned Larks were everywhere. I had hoped to get pictures of two species of Longspurs but they would not cooperate.

In the afternoon I went to visit Joan and Dennis at work. They send their best to everyone.

I spent the night at Glendo State Park in Wyoming.

Heading for Pawnee National Grassland......almost.

Highway 60 heading out of Apache Creek towards Socorro runs through desert with only the town of Magdalena and the VLA to break the monotony. The VLA stands for "Very Large Array" and consists of 27 187 ton 82 foot white discs which can be moved around on tracks. If you saw the movie "Contact" you would easily recognize these structures. They are used by radio astronomers but I suspect something more sinister since as I passed by them the truck started losing vital body fluids and the power steering went out. I stopped to see what kind of trouble I was in. Fortunately nothing was wrong with the engine so I decided to try to make it the 50 miles to Socorro. Steering was actually somewhat normal at highway speed but slowing down for curves required a little muscle. I was contemplating continuing on to Albuqueque where I would have a better chance of finding a good garage but as I slowed down for Socorro I discovered my brakes had also gone out and the truck felt like a tank in the steering department. My only option was stay over night until the garages opened in the morning.

I parked the truck on the first side street and walked the main drag until I came to the Sands Hotel. It was actually more than I expected for the $29 a night. Better yet the owner recommended a garage right across the street. I didn't have too many options so I walked back to the truck and nursed it to the garage and parked it there for the night.

Being in a hotel room felt like quite a luxury after all the camping so I decided to treat myself to a meal that didn't consist of any canned food. I decided on the Road Runner Steakhouse several block north of my hotel. The restaurant was rather upscale with fancy red and white linen table clothes and flowers on the table. The decor was a mixture of early spanish conquistadors, native Americans, and cowboys. That pretty much covers the history of the area, I suppose. The meal was excellent (grilled salmon) but anything probably would have gotten rave reviews from me after my normal diet. The weird thing about the meal was that I was the only customer in the entire place. It felt a little surreal sitting completely alone looking across all the fancy empty tables.

Gila National Forest, New Mexico

Typical Gila Forest Landscape

Charging equipment at lunch time

The highway leading into this area was smooth with little traffic. I stayed at the Apache Creek Campground. The town, Apache Creek, is on DeLorme maps and recognized by Tomtom, but consists of a little store, taxidermy shop, and a few mailboxes beside the highway. A large sign warned that Mexican wolves were destroying the local elk and had two graphic pictures of carcases to prove it.

The campground has a single pit toilet, some picnic tables and fire rings along with a notice that rabid foxes were found in the area. On the plus side, it is right next to the area I will be working in and has no fees.

The campground is the start of Forest Road 94 which leads into the backcountry. The road is easily passible by non-high clearance vehicles. The downside is that it is extremely dry, dusty, and a washboard in places. Billows of dust follow you everywhere. I am constantly wiping off equipment and the inside of the camper After a short time everything smelled and tasted of dust. There are hundreds of miles of similar roads in the area but I spent my entire time working just 13 miles of FR94. This area included serveral habitats including pinyon/juniper, ponderosa pine, spruce/fir/oak, and some scrub. It climbed to almost 9000 feet at the continental divide and the birding was fantastic. On a typical day only one or two vehicles would pass by. A good number of the birds are ones I have not seen much less photographed.

Grace's Warbler

Western Tanager

Steller's Jay

Santa Rosa State Park, New Mexico

I had hoped to get a few hours of good light on my target birds in Wichita Mt, but I woke to drizzle and fog, and decided to leave for New Mexico. The highlight of the morning travel was a bird strike 10 miles east of Mangum, Oklahoma. An Upland Sandpiper flew into the truck, hitting just above the windshield. When I looked back, I couldn't see anything so I stopped. There was a trail of body feather stuck on the wet underside of the camper leading to the back of the truck cab. When I looked between the truck cab and bed I found the bird stuck there with a "what happened?" look on its face. Surprized he was still alive I reached in, grabbed him and put him down on the shoulder of the road. He took two steps and flew off. That was the luckiest bird in Oklahoma that day.

An unplanned "man vs. food" side theme has taken over this trip. Arriving in Amarillo, Texas just as the weather began to clear, I came across the Big Texan Steakhouse, which claims to serve a free 72 oz. steak. Since I was somewhat hungry and it was conveniently placed right next to I 40, I pulled in.

The fine print is that you have to finish it in one hour to get it free. I figured it probably would take me an hour which I didn't have but the challenge is there for next time.

I arrived at the Santa Rosa State Park, in New Mexico mid afternoon. It is hot and sunny. What a difference a half day drive can make. This place is loaded with kingbirds and flycatchers. I got a great series of shots of a Say's Phoebe.

Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge continued

May 11, 2009

I decided to spend one more night here because I missed a lot of opportunities that I know I can get if the rain stops. So far most of my time has been spent in one of three ways:

1. Scouting the area for birds by hiking in likely looking areas (thank goodness for goretex)

2. Working in my "office" while listening to the rain.

3. Recovering from my "Seismic Burger".

My gamble paid off, a little sun peeked through the last several hours, and I was able to do a little shooting.

Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge

May 9-11

I arrived mid-afternoon and got the last site with electricity. No cell phone service at the campground but there is one bar at the visitor's center.

This refuge, in southwest Okalahoma, has 59,000 acres that survived the plow because of the underlying rock. It is now being managed for bison, elk, and deer. Oddly enough, they allow Texas longhorn cattle to chomp the grass alonside the more legitimate grazers. The cattle have status as a "cultural and historical legacy". This title does not keep them from being eaten, however. The Meers Store and Restaurant just north of the park serves the world famous gigantic "Seismic Meers Burger", which is made from the cattle.

One look at that burger and I was instantly reminded of the "Man vs Food" television program. The outside of the store and restaurant looked older that its 107 year history. If I hadn't run across the place on the web (www.meersstore.com), I would have missed a restaurant featured in the New York Times, Chicago Tribune, Bon Appetit Magazine, and a hamburger chosen as one of the 8 best in the country.

There was little work for the cameras because of the rain. I did go scouting and found my two main target species: the endangered Black-capped Vireo, and also the more common Rufous-crowned Sparrow. Other species seen were Mississippi Kite, Summer Tanagers (abundant in the campground), Scissor-tailed Flycatcher, Canyon Wren, Lazilu Bunting ( a first for me), Louisiana Water Thrush, and Lark Sparrow. Mammals included bison, elk, deer, coyote, and prairie dogs.

May 8, 2009
I spent a wild weather night when some pleasant pitter patters on the roof with occassional lightning flashes turned very intense. Normally I enjoy a little rain at night but after midnight I became concerned when the wind begin rocking the camper and the rain was coming down in torrents. The campground bulletin board (which I had read after showering) had a two page directive on flash flooding. Apparently the stream which runs through the campground is susceptible to flooding. The hosts would try to warn the campers but this was not guaranteed. In addition, when it does flood, it usually does so at night and only to a 6 to 12 inch level. Enough to float away any items left outside but not enough to endanger any rvs (tenters are another matter). Campers are advised to stay put since flash floods end as fast as they come up and the entrance road will probably be impassable and more dangerous.

This information was going through my mind as I decided to put my pants on and crack the door a little to check outside but I could not see anything through the driving rain except that the water had not risen underneath me. I turned on my weather radio and was not reassured by a "take immediate cover" warning for washington and crawford counties because of a tornado. I had no idea what county I was in, so out came the maps. Sure enough - Crawford Co. The tornado was 7 miles west of Potosi and headed southeast. That put it within a few miles of me. The radio advice to take cover under a sturdy worktable in the basement and wrap yourself in a blanket seemed ridiculous when you are in the back of a truck which is rocking back and forth. I decided to wait until I heard the proverbial train coming down the track and then run for the stream about 40 yards from me where I would just have to jump in. Death by tornado or death by flash flood....hmmm.

I think, by the time I got everything figured out, the tornado had already passed a couple miles to the south. Anyway, within an hour, things gradually became quiet and back to normal. In the morning I didn't see any signs of flooding or damage. Just a lot of leaves and small twigs on the ground. I was hoping to do some photography and check out the visitor center but the weather
conditions were still very poor and there was more active weather ahead of me so I left the park with not much more than a long hike, a shower, and a half night of sleep. I found out later that I had made the best move since another tornado went through the same area later in the morning.


















I filled up at a truck stop in Cuba on I44. Diesel is under $2.00 and 15 cents cheaper than regular-go figure. The Interstate ahead looks omnimous with heavy rain, a little hail, and the local radio station talks about some rotational activity near Joplin which is where I am heading. I decide to stay put for a while and get some computer work done.


I headed west around noon when the weather cleared. By then the truck stop and restaurant had lost power and water was literally pouring out in places through the ceiling.

The rest of the trip was rather nice except for two semi trucks that got tangled up, flipping one over. I stopped just over the Oklahoma border at Twin Bridge State Park.

The rain stopped overnight but it remains gray with some fog. The weather hasn't stopped the birds from singing, however. I walked the campground roads surrounded by calling birds. Migrating tennessee warblers are singing everywhere. A pair of pileated woodpeckers flew over me with their wings making heavy labored "frump frump" sounds. Indigo buntings are singing in the clearings with hooded warblers deeper in the woods. I did see one magnolia warbler.

I returned to camp and checked all the equipment. The flash is not working which could limit the possibilities-especially on days like this. Everything powers up, the external power supply is fine, and the pilot is on but it will not fire. Nothing in the manual. I cannot order a new one from B&H because I am moving too fast. I will have to work on it later, hoping it is some simple fix.

I left the park around noon, stopping on the way to check out the territorial Kentucky Warbler from last week. He did not let me down and I shot a few more images. For the most part the weather made this stop a disappoinment. My next stop will be Onondaga Cave State Park in Missouri. Their claim to fame is a spectacular, lighted, cathedral like cave.

Traveling without any rain made for a fast trip except for an unwanted detour through downtown St. Louis just as a Cardinals baseball game let out. I missed my exit when a traffic jam clogged both exit lanes and I could not make the exit. TomTom nicely took me through downtown ( I can't blame it for not knowing about the game). The second corner I turned put me into 3 blocks of red-shirted fans but the lights were with me and it worked out quite well.

Onondaga Cave SP has huge sites with long paved drives and patio sides. Nicely mowed and surrounded by large hills. Many of the sites were reserved for the weekend but I had my choice of a half dozen. A huge negative, however, is that it seems to be in a communication black hole. The cell phone surrenders immediately and doesn't even try to get out. The park host informed me I could walk up a maintenance road out the back to get to the top of the hill where cell phones would work. It was a two mile round trip with the last half mile of the hill quite steep. Thankfully (for the host's sake) I was able to call home and touch base.

May 5, 2009 Brown County State Park, Indiana

The trip down was pretty uneventful except for a steady rain which started about three hours into the trip. I decided to take US 421 south at Michigan City instead of I65. I always seem to get jammed up on I65. US 421 was shorter, slower, and a bit chewed up on the northern end but it was more interesting. The fields are not planted yet and some are quite wet. The radio ag report said that only 5% of the Indiana corn has been planted which puts them way behind previous years. The rain today won't help. Edie would like the small towns. Monon has a railroad museum restaurant that looked pretty impressive judging from the displays outside.

The gate attendant asked if the mushroom picking had started up in Michigan. He said it was almost over in the park-he looked kind of sad about that. The redbud are not in bloom anymore but the dogwood are out in force. What a difference a week makes. I can see, however why locals call this area "The Little Smokies". I decided to stay on raccoon ridge and found I was the only one there again. A few tents had been left behind but the campers were gone. The rain apparently had chased them out.

I hiked the campground in rain gear and found the same bird species as last week but not enough light and too much rain to even think about taking out the camera equipment. Three young men on motorcycles drove in and set up camp. I thought I might have some company but they left for town only to return late at night.

Towards evening the rain stopped but there was still fog in the valleys. I hope that clears out early.

Southern Indiana April

April 24. Muscatatuck NWR
I arrived in Seymour, Indiana late afternoon and went directly to Muscatatuck which is several miles east of town. There was a fair amount of traffic on the interior roads with fishermen and Friday night birders and wildlife viewers. The visitor center was closed so I began to refamilarize myself with the refuge. The same cooperative prothonotary warbler was at the bridge and he immediately attacked my mirrors and windshield. This bird apparently has been entertaining birders for three years now in the same spot. You simply park near the bridge and he will find you. I pity the poor birders who have waded through swamps to view a prothonotary when all they had to do was park by this bridge. The Redbud are in full bloom along with a number of other flowering shrubs. Hopefully the birds will cooperate and move into the more colorful trees and shrubs. The prothonotary, however, seems more interested in attacking my truck than in posing in the redbud.

I returned to Seymour and found a convenient WalMart. I pulled into the east end of the lot and backed into a spot with a fence and shrub border. Probably the most "wild and natural" WalMart spot I have ever camped at. Upon setting up I discovered I had no power. Either a bad battery or the charger is not working. I debated on buying a new battery in WalMart but then decided I didn't really need it just to sleep.

April 25, Seymour
Temperature have been in the high 80's although it cooled off enough for sleeping last night. I got to Muscatatuck almost an hour before sunrise and found the mechanical gate (which is suppose to open at sunrise-close automatically at sunset) was open. It was windy for this early in the morning and that is going to create some problems for photography. I listened for the dawn chorus and heard about ten species. A yellow-throated warbler was singing high over the visitor center and I decided to try for him first but after almost an hour he was not in any mood to come down lower from the tree canopy. I decided to move onto a "sure thing" which was the attack bird, bridge loving, prothonotary warbler. Dependable as ever, he appeared, but again was more interested in the truck than posing nicely but I managed a couple shots. I moved on to the main road and worked several large flowering trees for prairie warbler. During that time a black-billed cuckoo made its appearance along with a white-eyed vireo. I bagged the vireo but not the cuckoo.
I drove back to Seymour after lunch and got a cheap room at the AllState ($35). The shower felt good. I downloaded and sorted images and then returned to the refuge. I tried for a henslow's sparrow I had heard by the overflow visitor center parking lot but never got a good look at him. The wind is strong, making sharp images almost impossible. I returned to the hotel.

April 26.
I returned to the refuge again at sunrise and worked the "bridge prothonotary" and several prairie warblers. I explored some other parts of the sanctuary and found some wet wooded areas and a few small lakes which seem to be quite popular with the fishermen. I worked a brushline at the edge of a grassy area and found several ticks on me along with a pair of yellow-breasted chats and a blue-winged warbler, but did not get any images. At noon I left and headed for Brown County State Park.
The State Park was a zoo. It seemed as if there were several thousand people using the place. There was also a series of bike races through the park which kept you on your toes. They charge a $7 entry fee and then the camping on top of that. The park is huge, however, and the campground is blocked off from the rest of the traffic and action. It is built on large ridges, so that the back of most campsites are on the edge of huge valleys giving great views. In fact the park has fantastic vistas whereever you drive. They let the campers stay until 5 pm, at least on Sundays, and after that I had a large segment of the park completely to myself. The redbuds are in full bloom. I tried for hooded warbler, baltimore oriole, gnatcatchers, and yellow-throated warblers without success until sundown. I have power tonight so the dead battery won't be a problem.

April 27.
Warm and windy. Nothing cooperative at my campsite so I packed up and begin exploring. I found a great spot with many redbud and begin to see what was around. A very cooperative worm-eating warbler finally appeared. I have not been able to get good images at migrant traps in the past so that was great. On the way out I heard a Kentucky warbler singing and it turned out be very photogenic. The Kentucky and worm-eating warbler were my two southern target species so I left Brown Co very happy. Still very windy and warm but a front is going to be moving through so I thought I would drive up to Crane Creek, Ohio for some possible early migrants that might wait out the bad weather on the shores of Lake Erie. I got to Maumee SP too late for photography so I spent the rest of the evening editing.

April 28.
Starting to rain. I walk the boardwalk at Crane Creek in rain gear. There were three other birders there. A few warblers, some northern waterthrush, but too much rain for photography. I decide to begin heading home with a stop at Gull Lake and Allegan SGA. I had just gotten to Gull Lake when I got a call to head for Spectrum ER. Thankfully everything was under control when I got there.
Edie felt like doing something after the hospital experience so we headed to Fennville and ate at a mexican restaurant there. Edie found it by asking a young man on a crotch rocket at the gas station (Edie takes her job as restaurant chooser very seriously!). Apparently the restaurant has been a fixture there for many years but moved into a brand new facility four times as big a couple years ago. I hadn't expected much but it was great-authentic mexican with the different salsas brought to the table and a huge menu. They have a small mexican grocery store in one corner. After eating we toured several of the back roads in Allegan SGA. The dogwood are not in bloom yet and few of the migrating birds either were quiet or had not yet returned.